how to cook burgers
Burgers are one of the world’s favorite “sandwiches” for a reason. Here are the four main techniques I like to preach when sharing best practices for that burger craving.
Lean to fat ratio - When it comes to burger patties, lean to fat ratio is the name of the game. It may make you sound totally nerdy, but all it means is how much fat there is in the ground meat! 80:20 is the most standard (and delicious) lean to fat ratio in most burger joints, as well as at our butcheries, but you can always customise this. The first number is the lean percentage and the second is the fat percentage - just bear in mind that the leaner the burgers are, the higher their price.
What cuts make up a burger mix? You can literally take any ground meat and make a burger patty, but it doesn’t necessarily mean it will be tasty or juicy, which is why the lean to fat ratio is so important. The fat determines the burger’s juiciness and lean determines its flavour profile. Usually, the cuts used for beef burgers are chuck (for the lean) and brisket (for the fat). Chefs, however, are known for making interesting combinations of their own, sometimes adding in some fancy rib-eye, short ribs or other secondary cuts like tri-tip or rump. For lamb burgers, shoulder and fat from the rack or belly are often used, but you can also experiment with neck and shank meat for even more flavour. If you’re not sure where to start your custom burger journey, we recommend trying out your favourite butcher’s burger mix. If it’s too lean or iron-y, add some fattier cuts or amp up the fat percentage. If it’s too fatty (i.e. too much fat melts away on the burger for your liking), add some leaner, more flavourful cuts like tri-tip or topside for beef or some boneless leg for lamb.
Temperature, temperature, temperature. Growing up, making burgers always seemed like a meatloaf situation, involving eggs, breadcrumbs, and pretty much everything but the kitchen sink. “They fall apart if you don’t use binders”, people would tell me. Fast forward to today and the art of burgers has become as simple as can be. At La Carne, we use 100% beef or lamb in our burgers - no fillers, flavourings or seasoning… and guess what? They never fall apart! The secret is to keep your patties cold until just before it’s time to cook - that’s when it’s time to season and sear them on a hot surface. If you’re cooking outdoors, place your patties in a covered container over ice or inside a cold cooler to prevent the fat from melting. If you do make burgers at home, avoid over-mixing or getting the meat to become pasty or mushy, and simply season the surface of the patties. Keep patty-forming to a minimum to achieve a crunchy exterior and juicy interior on your burger.
Doneness - When I worked at a hotel as an intern, we had a phrase we were required to inform our customers of, otherwise known as The Hamburger Rule: “Kindly note that we recommend all burger patties to be cooked well done, however if you prefer your burger cooked to a different level of doneness, we will certainly fulfil your request at your own risk”. There are different perspectives when it comes to cooking mince; I say if you trust your source and meat quality, you can be adventurous with the doneness of your patty. Read Chapter 6 of our book, Steak Simplified, for more info!
Dimpling burgers on grills - Dimpling means making a dent in the middle of the burger patties to keep them from bulging when they cook. This happens because the collagen on the edges of the patties shrink when heated. Pans are best for cooking burgers as the heat only comes from below the patty and not towards the edges of the burger (thus directly heating the collagen), so the burgers won’t bulge while they’re cooking. Pan fried burgers will stay juicier, too! On a closed-hood grill, however, dimpling burgers is recommended.
Photos by John Magdalinos - Apertura Project.
